Tweeds Socks Pattern

Available in the current MagKnits offering, here's my pattern for Tweed's Socks.

Pattern: My own
Yarn: Elann's Esprit Sock It To Me Collection
Needles: 1 set US #6/4.25mm double-point needles

SIZES
Fits S [M/L] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot circumference: 8.0-8.25 [8.0-8.25/10.5-11.0] inches
Leg circumference: 8.0-8.25 [8.5-8.75/10.5-11.0] inches

In the Leg circumference measurements given above, the range of numbers given accounts for the elastic in this yarn, and how different the gauge will be as a result of each knitter's individual tension and technique. And each wearer may have a unique preference as to how tight each sock feels on their feet/legs.

Sizing notes: This pattern uses US #6 double-pointed needles (4.25 MM) to make a Small. Adjustments should be made to the length of the leg and foot, for personal preference and optimum sizing, and suggested lengths are included.

MATERIALS
Elann's Esprit Sock It To Me Collection [98.3% cotton, 1.7% elastic; 186yd/165m stretched & 100yd/91.4m relaxed per 50g skein]; colors shown: #2612 French Navy (Color A) & #2499 Capri Blue (Color B); 1 skein each
Substitution: Cascade Fixation can be substituted.

1 set US #6/4.25mm double-point needles
2 stitch markers
Tapestry needle

GAUGE
21 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
This sock is knit from the top down using a Long-tail Cast On, gusset decreases, and a rounded short row heel with flap. This stitch pattern will be produced on the wrong side of the work (the outside), contrary to most sock patterns. This means directions for the heel flap and toe are given (in what would normally be considered) backwards.

K1&P2tog: You will Knit & Purl into the next st in the following manner - Knit next stitch and leave it on the working ndl, bring yarn forward and purl next two sts together (stitch now below one just knitted and left on ndl and next stitch), leave yarn forward for next purl st

SPPsso: Slip next st purlwise, purl the next st, then pass the slipped st over the purled st.
w&t: Wrap & Turn = SL next st, wrap yarn around, turn work (holding yarn in position), SL st back, begin to K or P as directed.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Excellent photos of this process can be found here.
(http://www.sweaterscapes.com/shldseam.htm)

DIRECTIONS
Cast On
Using the Long-Tail Cast On method and darker color yarn (Color A), CO 48 [52/64] sts. Divide onto three DP Ndls as follows: Ndl 1 = 12 [12/16] sts, Ndl 2 = 24 [28/32] sts, Ndl 3 = 12 [12/16] sts, and join.
Arrange the sts on the needle(s) while working the first round.
Round 1: Color B *K2, P2* Rep * to end of Rnd.
Round 2: Color A *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * to end of Rnd.
Rep these two Rnds for a total of 70 Rnds for leg, or to desired length, ending with Color A.

Heel
You will work the Heel over a total of 24 [28/32] sts. At beginning of next Rnd and using Color B, P across 12 [14/16] sts. Turn, SL first st, and K back across rem 11 [13/15] sts, (and continuing to work on same needle) K 12 [14/16] sts from Ndl 3. You now have 24 [28/32] sts on one ndl, which you will work back and forth to form the heel. Divide rem 24 [24/32] sts onto Ndls 2 & 3 evenly to hold in place while working heel.
Heel Row 1 [WS]: Color A Sl1, P across rem 23 [27/31] sts.
Heel Row 2 [RS]: Color A *Sl1, K1*, Rep * to end, always ending with a K.
Heel Row 3 [WS]: Color B Sl1, P across rem 23 [27/31] sts.
Heel Row 4 [RS]: Color B *Sl1, K1*, Rep * to end, always ending with a K.
Rep Rows 1 – 4 4 [4/6] more times, for a total of 20 [22/28] rows, ending with Color B with the WS facing you.
Heel Flap, using Color A
Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, P11 [14/16], P2tog, P1, w&t.
Row 2 [RS]: K5, SKPsso, K1, w&t.
Row 3 [WS]: P6, P2tog, P1, w&t.
Row 4 [RS]: K7, SKPsso, K1, w&t.
Row 5 [WS]: P8, P2tog, P1, w&t.
Row 6 [RS]: K9, SKPsso, K1, w&t.
Continue in this manner until 16 [18/20] sts rem.

Gusset
PU Round in Color B: Nd1 1 = Place & K 8 [9/10] sts from turned heel flap, PU 10 [11/14] sts from side of heel. Ndl 2 = Place next 24 [24/32] sts and work as follows: *K2, P2* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl. Ndl 3 = PU 8 [11/10] sts from side of heel, place & K rem 8 [9/10] sts from turned heel flap.
Gusset Dec Rnd 1 in Color A: Ndl 1 = (starting with 18 [20/24] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 4 [4/5] times, K2tog [K2, K2tog/K2, K2tog]. Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl. Ndl 3 = (starting with 18 [20/24] sts) SKPsso [SKPsso, K2/SKPsso, K2], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 4 [4/5] times to end of Ndl. Gusset Rnd 2 in Color B: Ndl 1 = (starting with 17 [19/23] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * 4 [4/5] times, K1 [K3/K3].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl. Ndl 3 = (starting with 17 [19/23] sts) K1 [K3,K3], *K2, P2* Rep * 4 [4/5] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 3 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 17 [19/22] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [4/5] times, K1, K1&P2tog, K2tog [K1, K2tog/K2tog].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 17 [19/22] sts) SKPsso, K1, K1&P2tog [SKPsso, K1/SKPsso], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [4/5] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Rnd 4 in Color B:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 16 [18/21] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [4/4] times, [K2/K1].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 16 [18/21] sts) [K2/K1], *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [4/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 5 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 16 [18/21] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [4/4] times, K2tog, K2tog [K2tog/K1, K1&P2tog, K2tog].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 16 [18/21] sts) SKPsso, P2 [SKPsso/SKPsso, K1&P2tog, P1], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [4/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Rnd 6 in Color B:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 15 [17/20] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [4/4] times, K2, P1 [K1/N/A].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 15 [17/20] sts) K2, P1 [K2/N/A], *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [4/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 7 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 15 [17/20] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [3/4] times, [K1, K1&P2tog, K2tog/K2tog].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 15 [17/20] sts) [SKPsso, K1, K1&P2tog/SKPsso], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [3/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Rnd 8 in Color B:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 14 [16/19] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [3/4] times, K2 [K2/K3].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 14 [16/19] sts) K2 [K2/K3], *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [3/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 9 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 14 [16/19] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [3/4] times, K2tog [K2, K2tog/K1, K2tog].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 14 [16/19] sts) SKPsso [SKPsso, K2/SKPsso, K1], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 3 [3/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Rnd 10 in Color B:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 13 [15/18] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [3/4] times, K1 [K3/K2].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 13 [15/18] sts) K1 [K3/K2], *K2, P2* Rep * 3 [3/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 11 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with 13 [15/18] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 2 [3/4] times, K1, K1&P2tog, K2tog [K1/K2tog; K2tog].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 6 [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with 13 [15/18] sts) SKPsso, K1&P2tog, P1 [SKPsso, K1/SKPsso], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * 2 [3/4] times to end of Ndl.

-=-=-=-
Skip next Gusset Rnds & PROCEED To "Continue Basic Pattern Rnd 1" If Working Size L
-=-=-=-

Gusset Rnd 12 in Color B:
Ndl 1 = (starting with [14/17] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * [3/4] times, [K2/K1].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with [14/17] sts) [K2/K1], *K2, P2* Rep * [3/4] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 13 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with [14/17] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * [3/3] times, [K2tog/K1, K1&P2tog, K2tog].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * [6/8] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with [14/17] sts) [SKPsso/SKPsso, K1&P2tog, P1], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * [3/3] times to end of Ndl.

-=-=-=-
Skip next Gusset Rnds & PROCEED To "Continue Basic Pattern Rnd 1" If Working Size S
-=-=-=-

Gusset Rnd 14 in Color B:
Ndl 1 = (starting with [13/N/A] sts) *K2, P2* Rep * [3/N/A] times, [K1/N/A].
Ndl 2 = *K2, P2* Rep * [6/N/A] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with [13/N/A] sts) [K1/N/A], *K2, P2* Rep * [3/N/A] times to end of Ndl.

Gusset Dec Rnd 15 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = (starting with [13/N/A] sts) *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * [2/N/A] times, [K2, K2tog/N/A].
Ndl 2 = *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * [6/N/A] times to end of Ndl.
Ndl 3 = (starting with [13/N/A] sts) [SKPsso, K2/N/A], *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * [2/N/A] times to end of Ndl.


Shown in sock-in-progress photo, "tweeds_lilac.jpg";
Caption Suggestion: Another sock-in-progress shown in colors #6287, African Violet (Color A) & #6399, Lilac (Color B)


Continue Basic Pattern Rnds 1 & 2 as follows (Starting with 12 [12/16] sts on Ndls 1 & 2, 24 [24/32] sts on Ndl 3):

Basic Pattern Round 1: Color B *K2, P2* Rep * to end of Rnd.
Basic Pattern Round 2: Color A *K1, K1&P2tog, P1* Rep * to end of Rnd.

Rep these two Rnds for a total of 50 [56/60] Rnds for foot, or to desired length, ending with Color A.


Toe
Rnd 1 in Color B: P even.
Rnd 2 in Color A:
Ndl 1 = P to last 3 sts, SPPsso, K1.
Ndl 2 = P1, P2tog, P to last 3 sts, SPPsso, P1.
Ndl 3 = P1, P2tog, P to end.

Continue alternating these rnds until a total of 20 [24/28] sts rem. Then rep Toe Rnd 2 every Rnd, but continue to alternate Colors A & B, until 8 [8/12] sts rem. Place rem sts on waste yarn (carefully noting with st markers where Ndls 1 & 2 meet, and 2 & 3 meet) and turn sock inside-out (so that RS is now on inside of sock) and, placing 8 [8/12] sts back onto each of 2 ndls (using st markers as your guide as to where to divide onto 2 ndls).
Seal toe using either Kitchener St or 3-needle BO.

Weave in ends.